Set on a residential street on Eyre Place, between Edinburgh’s New Town and Stockbridge, I walk past Cardinal almost daily and have often wondered what sits behind the wooden slat shutters, so I was delighted when I received an invitation to experience the Tasting Menu at this fine-dining independent restaurant.
Setting the Scene
A small candle-lit reception area with a heavy floor-to-ceiling curtain that divides the entrance from the main restaurant is where we are immediately greeted by the friendly front of house. Our coats are taken and we’re made to feel very welcome with some informal chit chat before being guided to our table.
The restaurant is intimate with just 24 covers and makes use of its space well, tables stand at a respectable distance apart (avoiding the dare-not-speak diner scenario) and are set with minimalistic cutlery, a trio of feathers form the centre piece which are illuminated by the amber glow from the tumbler-style table candle. The background music is of an Ibiza-chill genre. Dark wood tables, chairs and black banquette seating are complimented by bursts of vibrant colour from the artwork adorning the exposed stone walls. The vibe is understated cool. I immediately like this place.
And what makes it even more likeable is that the interiors have all been designed by Chef himself, and he has personally selected the artwork, all of which is available to buy and supports Art in Healthcare, a charity working across Scotland to improve health and wellbeing for individuals and communities.
Despite it being a bleak mid-weeknight in January, the restaurant is almost full, and with the combination of the full tasting menu, or a set 3-course menu (at a reasonable price point) we learn that the restaurant is a favourite with tourists and locals alike. Always a good sign.
Chef
Owned and led by Chef Tomás Gormley, Cardinal opened in March 2024 and is a concept that goes beyond the outstanding culinary talents of the acclaimed Chef. The restaurant concept is underpinned by Chef’s zero-waste ethos, which Chef strives to incorporate wherever possible. Working with local suppliers and as closely with nature as possible also enhances Cardinal’s culinary offering and for extra depth of flavour and unique character, dishes are cooked over coals in the kitchen.
Cardinal also brings together artisans from different disciplines to create a unique and sensory experience. For example, collaborations with potters for the plate and tableware, artisans such as local candle makers (one of whom is his Aunty), foragers and native produce specialists. It’s all these extra touches that work together to make the whole greater than the parts.
With impressive credentials and a CV that includes time at Edinburgh’s iconic 21212, led by Paul Kitching, at Le Roi Fou under the guidance of renowned chef Jerome Henry and at Restaurant Andrew Fairlie at the Gleneagles Hotel, it is no wonder that in 2023 Tomás was named CODE Hospitality’s “30 Under 30” and listed as number 28 in The List’s “Hot 100”.
The Tasting Menu
The menu sits on the table, awaiting diners’ arrival. It is simple in presentation with a hand-drawn illustration of the restaurant exterior and a little red bird stamp (a nod to the restaurant’s name’s sake) and minimal in description, creating a sense of anticipation and wonder for each of the 10 courses.
The tasting menu is a relatively palatable (pardon the pun) price point with the option for wine pairing too. We opted to share a bottle of white wine which the very knowledgeable sommelier guided us on and chose Clos de L’Epinay, an organic winery in Vouvray. The chenin blanc presented a stone-fruit vibrancy which was creamy to the finish and looked slightly cloudy due to its bio-dynamic nature. It reminded us of a crisp and more elegant cider. It was extremely quaffable!
We begin the journey with a light pumpkin soup served in a stone vessel. It’s salty, slightly sweet and delicious. I struggle to detect pumpkin, but an umami element is definitely present. The soup is made with oil infused with lovage and a splash is added to the top to create the fun colour separation. We’re off to an excellent start!!
The next dish is almost too beautiful to deconstruct. Standing on a sturdy stone pillar sits a delicate creation that is almost butterfly-esque. The star of the show is yellow fish tuna complemented by Fermented celeriac and crunchy Granny Smith apple. I try to savour this in two rather clumsy bites and rescue the second before losing it to the floor. I am so pleased I did – this combination of soft fleshy tuna with the tart apple and earthy celeriac is absolutely divine.
The ‘carb’ course follows. Small but perfectly formed slices of sourdough bread brown in colour served with a great scoop of soft brown butter. The bread is made using grains only found in Orkney, it has a light and fluffy centre with a crunchy crust and is finished with poppy seeds presenting a slight sweetness. The heavenly scoop of brown butter is made following Chef’s zero waste ethos. It eagerly oozes across the slice of warm bread with creaminess showcased in full glory. The first bite is slightly salty with a hint of sweetness coming through. I could eat this until the cows (that make this creamy delight) come home!! Seriously, if each course had been this repeated ten-fold I would not have been disappointed.
Each course is served in a timely manner, with time to chit chat in between and mainly revelling in the culinary delight that has gone before us. The whole experience is very relaxed.
Each course is presented on a sleek tray, another one of Head Chef’s collaborations, and is described in great detail by the proud and knowledgeable team member. It is evident that every player here shares the same pleasure and satisfaction that is a result of both the creativity and hard work that clearly goes into this carefully crafted menu.
Before the next course arrives my friend pops to the bathroom, immediately the waiter sweeps the table with a mini dustpan and brush and neatly folds his napkin in preparation for my friend’s return. Attention to detail prevails everywhere.
We are then presented with a beautiful oyster shell in which we find, beneath light airy yoghurt foam, a tantalising combination of crunchy carrot and ginger, Unami citrusy sea buckthorn fleshy salty sea trout finished with roe for extra texture, the sharpness of the dish is perfectly balanced by a sauce which offers an unexpected richness. We’re informed this is one of the more complex dishes on the menu and we can not only see but also taste why. There are so many aspects to this dish and it’s competing with the bread for my number one spot (so far!).
Belhaven smoked lobster tails which have been smoked in cherry wood whisky casks enhance the smoky flavour. The flamingo pink bisque hides soft and buttery potatoes from nearby Northumberland, and the chilli gives the dish a warming kick. Yum!
Continuing the sea-faring theme, succulent scallops are next on the menu served in creamy, slightly salty sauce with a touch of zing from lemongrass. Fermented leek bulbs, which look a bit like green lentils, add great texture to the dish. We learn that the leek bulbs are fermented at the end of their season so they can be used later throughout the year. I’ve never tried these before but thoroughly enjoyed this dish, it is my friend’s favourite (again – so far!!)
Venison. Venison. Venison. Whenever I see this on a menu my heart flutters and I start to salivate. It is my all-time favourite meat, so I have high hopes for this course.
The venison is from Hopetoun Estate, just 40 miles away from Edinburgh. The succulent, perfectly pink slice has been barbequed, and the tender piece of meat is complemented with a syrupy jus made from fermented blueberries and caramelised miso served over firm red and golden beets. On the side sits a juicy and peppery venison faggot – not only a delicious companion to the star of the show but also another example of Chef’s zero-waste ethos. Chef’s take on venison has far surpassed my expectations.
Like the Lobster, the cheese course is served as part of the ‘Full Cardinal Experience’ and although I’m not a cheese lover, I decide to give it a try – encouraged by my cheese-fiend friend who thinks he’ll get my leftovers. This description is perhaps the most understated description on the entire menu. Inspired by a Portuguese Pastel ’de Nata. A crisp and butter pastry encases a warm, soft and creamy Isle of Mull Cheddar ‘custard’ befriended by sweet and tangy pickled pearl onions, slices of tart Gala apple, barbeque cheese wedges, pickled mustard seeds, sweet apple cider chutney all finished with striking green chive ribbons. Needless to say, there weren’t any leftovers!
This is the most popular dish on the menu, so it remains a firm fixture, changing only the trimmings to reflect the flavours and produce of the season.
Taking time to digest the array of truly delectable dishes we enjoy the music, sip on our wine, and read with intrigue what is coming next. We’re offered a dessert wine; however, I’m not a fan of sweet wine and I’m already feeling a little tipsy so politely decline.
The waitress arrives with her sleek stone tray and presents us with a ‘pre-dessert’ dessert. My, if this is just the ‘pre-dessert’ we’re in for an even better treat with the main dessert.
Warm, velvety chocolate sauce is poured from a stone jug over the chocolate creation which is rich and indulgent yet as it’s made from aerated chocolate isn’t sickly in the slightest. It reminds me of an extravagant and truly decadent ‘Flake. It’s served with quince sorbet flavoured with cinnamon and seasonal spices. Crunchy cocoa nibs add contrast to the texture. It is heavenly. More sir, please can I have some more!!
The final course of the evening had a lot to live up to, following a series of ‘this is my favourite!!’ courses. Described as Poppy Seed | Lemon | Malt, I’m not sure what to expect.
It’s a carefully constructed work of food art and I’m not sure I have the heart to dig in. That thought doesn’t last long……the main dessert is a bread dessert made with more bread, based on the French toast style dish. As we know, the much-loved Cardinal’s bread is baked in-house, and they use any leftovers to create this precise and thoughtful dessert.
The dish centres around Chef’s own take on a refined French toast, which is served with malted barley milk and a bread-based ice cream. Poppy seed caviar adds texture and contrast, and the base is finished with breadcrumbs mixed with muscovado sugar and egg white to create a crisp and light meringue-style topping with kvass gel. Kvass is a lightly alcoholic fermented drink that sits somewhere between kombucha and beer. They make it by toasting bread, then fermenting it in water and sugar, they then reduce the liquid and set into a gel for this dessert. Candied lemon peel balances the richness, and the smattering of delicate edible flowers are the finishing touch. This concluding creation really epitomises not only Chef’s outstanding culinary skills, imagination and creativity, but also his integrity in upholding his zero-waste belief.
The show’s not over yet. Although we both decline a coffee, we’re served a trio each of petit fours which are poised tantalising on another sturdy stone pedestal. Despite being quite full and still delighting in what we’ve just experienced it would be rude not to finish the crystalised jelly, crisp and chewy macaroon and oozing caramel treats. Thank you.
Final Thoughts
Back to the start of the narrative. I used to wonder what lies behind the secretive wooden shutters as I walked past the unassuming restaurant window. I now know. And I now love this intimate hidden gem. Cardinal is an absolute must-visit and not just for foodies, for anyone who enjoys food that is beyond excellent (both in presentation and flavour) appreciates a relaxed and modern ambience and values service which is executed with pride and care. I highly recommend!
